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Understitching is a line of stitching along the edge of a facing or undercollar to keep it from rolling to the outside. Understitching is done on all facing edge-seam except the very short ones, such as the ends of a straight collar, or where the stitching would show as a lapel.

Under-stitching in action:

Source: Threadez.com

Popularity: 11% [?]

Empire seams are seams that are sewn just below the bust line.

You can see the photo below of a GAP dress with the seam right below the bust line:

Popularity: 9% [?]

A tech pack is a set of instructions that you would send with your order to a contractor or manufacturer. A technical package let’s a factory know exactly what your designer wants as far as the garment is concerned. A tech pack should include: measurement sheets, a flat sketch of the garment, fabric and trim requirements possibly more.

Illustration of tech pack below:

Popularity: 10% [?]

Topstitching is a sewing term that refers to stitches that usually are on the outer (not the inside,the outside visible) edge of a garment and is used to attach one garment piece to another.(Ex: pockets,collars,shoes,belts) Sometimes used as decoration, constructive, or aesthetic purposes and is sewn parallel or right next to the seam.

Illustration of top stitching below:

Source: Mollybloom

Popularity: 11% [?]

Seam Allowance is in reference to the space between the raw uneven edge and the stitching.

The photo below shows the seam allowance:(See the space between the stitches and the raw uneven edge)

Popularity: 8% [?]

Clean Finish refers to the process of turning under the raw edge of fabric to the inside and stitching close to the folded edge. This is to prevent fraying and to give the seam allowance a clean finish. (without the raw fraying edges showing) Usually you’re instructed to turn under anywhere from 1/4-1/8 of the raw edge. Really depends on the fabric.

Clean finished edge:

Popularity: 6% [?]

A V-shaped seam that starts wide and tapers off the edge of the fabric. A dart molds a flat piece of fabric so that it fits smoothly over a rounded area of the body, like around hips, bust or the top of your head.

That is how they achieve the fit of some form fitting tops and dresses in women’s wear. The darts make the fabric conform to the body’s contours.

You can see the darts on this basic men’s pattern block:

Popularity: 6% [?]

Baste when you are sewing, refers to temporarily joining fabric together.

I remember doing a few pieces in college that required basting and just to remind you I hate sewing and it is not something that I do on the regular. Sewing does help you to understand the manufacturing process so knowing a little about a lot of the process will help you in the long run.

Basting requires you to temporarily sew two pieces of fabric together with long removable stitches. Basting is the action of sewing a temporary stitch. It is achieved by making large removable stitches by hand or machine. The more you need to hold something together, the smaller your basting stitches will be, but they are always sewn with the intent to be removed later.

Machine basting is also used to ease in and gather fabric.

Basting holds something in place to test the fit or the look of an alteration help control fabric for final stitching. It is also used to temporarily close a seam as in inserting a zipper.

Armscye is an armhole in the body of the garment that the sleeve or facing will fit into during construction of the garment.

Any adjustment made to the armscye on the pattern, must also be made to the sleeve of facing so that the pieces will fit together during construction.

Below is a picture of a trimmed armscye:

Photo of the armscye in a pattern:

Source: Sewing Glossary

Popularity: 4% [?]

Backstitching is sewing in reverse and forward over the same stitches to lock the end of a line of sewing. Backstitching prevents the stitching from coming unsewn and unraveling.

Picture of backstitching is below:

A stitch made by inserting the needle at the midpoint of a preceding stitch so that the stitches overlap by half lengths.

The backstitch is much more sturdy and is most often used for seams in period, but is a heavier line. It is accomplished by stitching back under every stitch taken, as in the diagram below.

Popularity: 5% [?]

The surface of satin weave cloth is almost made up entirely of warp or filling floats since in the repeat of the weave, each yarn of the one system passes or floats over or under all but one yarn of the opposite yarn system. Satin weaves have a host of uses - brocade, damask other decorative materials.

Illustration of Satin Weave:

Source: Linen ‘n Things Product Guide

Popularity: 8% [?]

Tough and tightly-woven twill weave fabric made of cotton, synthetic or mixed materials, it is smooth on one side and presents a diagonally ribbed surface on the other.

Photo of Gabardine:

Source: Soviet Jeans

Popularity: 8% [?]

One of the three fundamental weaves plain, satin, and twill. Each yarn filling passes successfully over and under each warp yarn alternating under each row.

Here is an illustration of a plain weave:

Popularity: 8% [?]

Refers to the sewing of thread into fabric of a different color. Using 100% polyester thread will reduce the chance of color migration. Filament threads have a higher sheen and spun thread with a fibrous surface has a softer look. It gives more definition to a seam or intricate design on a garment.

Notice the purple contrast stitching on this jacket below:

Source: AME Fird

Popularity: 11% [?]

I’m pretty sure most of you are familiar with the term Flame Retardant, which is the ability of fabric to resist burning. Mostly used on specialty clothing and children’s wear on pajamas and clothing alike.

All fabrics will burn but some are more combustible than others. Untreated natural fibers such as cotton, linen and silk burn more readily than wool, which is more difficult to ignite and burns with a low flame velocity.

Source: Fabric.net

Popularity: 7% [?]