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Mercerizing for denim is used to increase luster, by passing the denim through a bath of caustic soda. It’s a process carried out after the denim is woven and vastly different to the more common method of mercerizing yarn. As it significantly increases the cost and lead times of denim production, it is a relatively rare process. To the un-trained eye it would go unnoticed.
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A Dye Lot is the quantity of fabric that a given manufacturer can color in a single production process in its factory.
Source: Fabrics
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Process in which yarn is run through indigo dye, then the color is fixed by exposing it to air. This allows the fabric to fade gradually.
Source: Jeans Glossary
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Small bobbles of fabric that develop on the fabric surface due to general wear and tear. I know you’ve had an old sweater where the fabric rolls up into the little balls after being washed a few times.
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CP Cotton: Refers to Combed Peeler cotton that comes from California. CP cotton is not as strong as CS cotton (Is a much more superior grade of cotton) and is also less expensive. CP cotton has a lighter color as opposed to CS cotton. CP cotton threads are available either soft, mercerized or glaced.
Source: AMEFIRD
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Any type of yarn that is irregular in diameter; the irregularity maybe the result of error or purposeful to enhance the material.
Source: Int
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Cover stitches are formed by two or more needles and one or two loopers. More commonly used for the seam of knit underwear, athletic wear, intimate apparel and attaching trims. Cover stitches provide excellent coverage of raw seam edges on the top and bottom sides. This allows very flat parallel seam constructions.
Below is an example of a cover stitch:
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Bartack stitches is a sewing technique mostly used on denim which reinforces the stress points on jeans, including the pocket openings also used to attach belt loops. On jeans you could see them places where you might see surrounding rivets. There are special sewing machines made especially for bartacking and they are available in either lockstitch or single-thread chain stitching.
Below is a picture of bartacking up close:
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Slasher dyed is one of the three most common methods to dye indigo yarn ring and rope are the other two. It may be used with indigo, sulfur, vat, reactive and direct dyes. Typically, a sheet or web of substantially parallel and non-entangled warp yarns is passed through several dye baths in sheet form, washed, dried, and wound onto a beam.
Indigo dyed dry yarn:
Source: Jeans.com
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Dips is used to describe fabric or yarn when they are immersed in dye. Indigo yarns are dipped in an indigo bath usually 6 times but up to 16 times. The number of dips determines the depth of the indigo color
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A fabric with small geometric figures incorporated into the weave, it is made on special looms. It requires special looms that control harnesses so as to permit this type of weaving.
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A seam commonly used in jeans wear or leather garments (shirts, jeans, jackets) where a sewing machine stitches two threads side by side for strength at one time. Also called a saddler’s stitch. Basically used where a stronger seam is needed to hold together two pieces of fabric.
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Sanforizing is a process where the fabric is run through a sanforizer; a machine that has drums filled with hot steam. Sanforizing denim is a method of stretching and manipulating the cloth in the factory prior to any washing so that any shrinking during future washes will be minimalized. It is important to note if your raw jeans are sanforized or not, because before determining what size to buy, you must know non-sanforized jeans will shrink 7-10%, while sanforized jeans will shrink 1-5%. It is often advised to give non-sanforized jeans a warm soak before wearing them to get the shrinking done before you create wear marks on the jeans.
Photo of sanforizer machine:
Source: Organic Cotton Plus/Style Forum
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An industrial finishing process that takes off natural and artificial impurities from yarn or fabric and increases the brightness of cotton. These various impurities must be removed so that the textile fibers may be further processed. Also a process for laundries to make denim jeans fade.
Bleached jeans:
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Redline refers to a colored warp thread that is run through the selvage edge of denim fabric. This is not indication of the quality of the jeans so much as it is a signature of the maker, and a way for Cone Mills (textile manufacturer) to differentiate between the denim they made for different companies. Lee denim had a green (or sometimes blue) warp thread on their selvage, and Wrangler used yellow.
Redline was also the signature line by Levi that contained the “Big E“, but were all produced before 1971.
In the picture below you can see the redline running up the selvage edge:
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