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Keith:

“I’m trying to compare the quality for the shirts from the different manufacturers but dont know where you start. I’m confused with the terms 50/50, Ultra Blend, Heavy etc. Does more oz mean better quality. Does Double-needle seamless rib at collar mean the collar is tight and not stretch out as if the shirt had mean worn for year……Help me Please!!!!”

ln my personal experience different weights/oz don’t really mean better quality, because its all about your audience and who you’re selling your garments to and how they perceive quality. Some think quality is in how a shirt fits while others think the heavier it is the better quality shirt and others relate to the craftsmanship in the stitching and construction. I can tell you it has nothing to do with prices in most cases. Look at an Ed Hardy t-shirt compared to a Ecko, Armani Exchange or Artful Dodger shirt there is a definite difference in quality, but a gap in pricing and its all off of demand and the different markets they sell to.

I can tell you that a tubular shirt in most cases isn’t better quality or perceived as better quality because of the process in which they are constructed. Most blanks are tubular (without a side-seam) and quickly pumped out consisting of tubed body and sleeves. While most startups use them some go the rarely used route and produce cut & sew where you have more control over the fit and overall styling of your t-shirt.

The best quality blanks in my opinion are made by Luxe-T while the most used blanks are by Alstyle Apparel and their average quality the fit is good and universal so you could use it for a contemporary line as well as a urban/streetwear company.

50/50 blend usually refers to cotton/polyester blend which will make give the fabric more of a stretch. Ultra Blend is a style of Gildan t-shirt that is just another name for 50/50 and is a jersey tubular knit garment.

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